I went to New York in 1998 for a friend’s hen weekend. It was a very different place then.
The cheapest flight we could get was with Air India, which left from Delhi and then stopped off at Heathrow, where the 7 of us got on board, plus a stag party of 3. All the other passengers had already been flying for several hours, and there we were, this group of Brits ready to get the party started.
This was in the days when you got unlimited free booze on planes. We kept bothering the steward for vodka until eventually she just asked (in an understandably exasperated manner) “shall I just bring you the bottle?”
We finished that (to be fair, I finished most of it) and I also shared a bottle of Jack Daniels with a bloke from the stag party (I also got him to give me his Oakley sunglasses, but that’s a different story).
It’s fair to say we (I) was smashed. I have a memory of lying on the floor (of an aeroplane, ffs) with my top off, wearing just a leopard print see-through camisole, singing Never Ever by the All Saints at the top of my voice. I am aware this is terrible behaviour and also that these days I’d likely be arrested, but like I say, the world was very different then.
Obviously the (enormous) hangover hit not long before we landed. It was like my soul had left my body and been replaced by something putrid, and satan had projectile vomited hammers into my skull. We’d ordered a swanky stretch limo to take us into NYC which was amazing, but all I could do was lie on the seat and wish for the sweet release of death.
I remember my friends finally seeing the iconic Manhattan skyline and all excitedly gasping and cooing and taking photos, and I remember thinking – we’ve travelled across the globe for this, but I swear, if someone could grant me one wish right now, it would be to be at home on my sofa, crying under a blanket. I didn’t even lift my head or open my eyes to look at the view.
I eventually had to get the limo to stop, stuck my head out the window, and threw up everywhere. I looked up, and this shameful scene was happening right in front of the Plaza Hotel, where Crocodile Dundee stayed in the film.
I am quite ashamed of this story, but you gotta admit, as chunders go, it’s quite glamorous.
Like I say, New York (and the world) was a very different place back then. And I was a very different person back then. This trip will be very different.
You might want to hide my posts for a week or so, cos there is gonna be spaaaaaaaaaam…
NEW YORK ADVENTURES: DAY 1
Had the best flight ever, the entire row to myself so I could spread all my stuff out and then lie across all 3 seats for a kip, and also watched Triangle of Sadness, which is going up there at the top of my Oscars 2023 list.
Arrived in NYC and immediately went to the 9/11 Memorial, AKA Ground Zero, and the new World Trade Center tower – an incredibly beautiful and thoughtful tribute to the nearly 3000 people who lost their lives. The names around the waterfalls that mark the footprints where the original Twin Towers stood also include the unborn children who were lost that day, which I found incredibly moving. White roses are placed next to the names of those who on that day would be celebrating their birthday.
Nearby is the Koenig Sphere at Liberty Park – this is a globe sculpture that stood at the centre of the plaza between the Twin Towers. It was severely damaged on September 11 and then recovered from the rubble at Ground Zero, and remains in its damaged state as a representation of hope and resilience. I absolutely love this, I think the visible damage is so powerful.
I also saw the Charging Bull of Wall Street sculpture, a symbol of financial optimism and prosperity – or rather, male aggression and testosterone, judging by its massive dangly bollox 🤣
Then a quick meander round Battery Park, where I got my first glimpse of the Statue of Liberty! But more of her another day, cos I haven’t slept for 22 hours…
NYC ADVENTURE: DAY 2
Started the day with American pancakes, bacon and maple syrup, and then visiting the observation deck in the new World Trade Center. There’s a visual representation on the walls of the lift (or “elevator”) of how New York was developed (and destroyed) over the years, as if you are travelling through time, and seeing it built all around you. It’s a really powerful way to set the scene.
Upon arriving at the observation deck, there’s another video experience of the cityscape of New York, at the end of which the screens unexpectedly lift to reveal the huge windows looking out at Manhattan from over 100 storeys high. It’s completely breathtaking, and made even better by the fact that when they lifted, we were surrounded by flurries of snow!!!! Only briefly but it made everything so magical.
It was -5 today, so after seeing the whole of NYC from the highest point, it seemed sensible to spend the afternoon at the Guggenheim, where there was an exhibition of the artist Nick Cave, plus French impressionist art.
After that it was time for a wander round Central Park, and cocktails and dinner at Tavern On The Green, an iconic eatery featured in many films including Wall Street and Ghostbusters.
On the way back I passed the Dakota building, where the film Rosemary’s Baby is set, and where John Lennon was murdered. There’s also a mural in the nearby subway station by Yoko Ono in tribute to Lennon.
New York is beautiful both by day and by night.
In short, so far this trip is fucking awesome.
NYC ADVENTURES DAY 3:
Woke up at 5.30am as still operating a little on UK time, so was up and about early. Went back to the Charging Bull on Wall Street, which was a lot quieter than when I saw it on Friday when there was a crowd of about 100 people. Rubbing its balls supposedly brings you prosperity, so I had a good grope.
Had a bottomless brunch featuring eggs Benedict, Bloody Mary and mimosa, as recommended by my mum, then headed up towards Central Park.
Started at Greyshot arch, where the last scene in the film Cloverfield was shot, so I huddled underneath the bridge and pretended I was being hunted by a monster.
Moved on to Pine Bank Arch, which was featured in the film Elf, so I pretended it was Christmas and I was in a snowball fight.
Next stop was the Dakota building (again), cos I was tipsy last night when I saw it, and also wanted to appreciate the architecture by daylight. The spot where Terri falls to her death in Rosemary’s Baby was the exact spot where John Lennon was shot 12 years later, so I found it a really eerie spot to stand in.
Directly opposite the Dakota, in Central Park is Strawberry Field, the memorial to Lennon featuring an Imagine mosaic. It’s a really lovely spot, with a busker playing Beatles songs and benches to sit and enjoy the atmosphere.
From there it was just an amble through Central Park, taking in the Sheep Meadow, Cherry Hill, Bow Bridge, and the Bethesda Fountain and Terrace, which is beautiful. There are a lot of influencers/photo shoots going on around these areas, which is interesting to watch cos I’ve had my fair share of being the one doing location shoots in not much clothing in the freezing cold.
Stopped off at the Naumburg Bandshell to do a split (obviously), passed the Loeb Boathouse where you can hire boats and row on the water in summer, on to the Hans Christian Andersen monument (resisted giving him a lap dance), stopped off for a coffee at Conservatory Water which was beautiful as the sun had come out by then and it was really warm, so was able to spend an hour or so sitting and taking everything in.
Final stop was the Alice in Wonderland statue which you can’t get a good picture of as it’s always covered in 15 million children 🤣
You might be able to spot in these pictures some really tall, thin buildings at the edge of Central Park. These are the 2nd and 3rd highest buildings in New York (after the World Trade Center), and are the tallest residential buildings in the world. They are so slender, they look like they might snap.
Rounded off the day with pizza at the Industry Kitchen with fantastic views of Brooklyn.
Perfect day ❤️
NYC ADVENTURES DAY 4:
9/11 Memorial Museum
I grew up in London in the 80s, so I’m no stranger to terrorist attacks, but this is on an entirely different plain. Seeing the destruction and devastation on display here, hearing the stories, it’s hard to comprehend how it was even possible to rebuild and recover.
I know it’s been more than 20 years since 9/11, but maybe it’s because to me it still feels only a short time ago, that it is completely overwhelming to see how this city has thrived following such horror.
This was an incredible exhibition, thoughtfully curated and displayed, with a respectful and sombre tone.
The Twin Towers were so massive they interfered with local television signals. To provide better reception, a broadcast antenna was installed on the North Tower. When the towers were hit, tv coverage was disrupted, ceasing completely when the north tower collapsed. Part of that antenna is on display, showing the sheer size of it.
The original foundations of the tower are still in place, giving you an idea of scale and place. And twisted, mangled girders, showing the sheer power of the collapse.
There’s also what became known as the “survivor’s staircase”, where those escaping the towers were able to flee the area. These are displayed next to a staircase taking you down a level of the museum, so it’s almost like the you are walking down the steps yourself.
It’s a genuinely affecting and moving experience.
After visiting the 9/11 Memorial Museum, I definitely needed to recalibrate a bit, so has a nice wander through TriBeCa, Greenwich Village, SoHo and Bleecker Street.
There’s a completely different vibe here, and beautiful architecture, gorgeous shops and restaurants.
Obviously has to stop off at the Ghostbusters HQ, and also came across the building used for the exterior shots of the apartment in Friends – which btw is just a building on a quiet road, no signs or fanfare or anything. I’m not even a particular fan of Friends, but had to get a snap anyway.
Also came across the narrowest house in New York – it’s 9 foot wide.
The thing about exploring a city on your own is that you have to keep getting out your selfie stick like a nob, or asking people to take your photo and hope they don’t run off with your camera – or, as Kim and Ralph say, if you ask someone to take your photo, make sure you can run faster than they can.
Met up with my cousin Chris who lives here for dinner and drinks in the evening, which was great but my god I’m paying for it today 🤣
NYC ADVENTURES DAY 6:
Early start, to head uptown for a Breakfast at Tiffany’s. I did think maybe the place would be overcrowded with other wannabe Holly Golightly twats with their coffee and croissants, but no, I was the only twat there. It was lovely actually, the sun was shining, the sky was clear, and Rockefeller Plaza is beautiful.
I headed down to Times Square, but as it was still so early in the morning, nothing was open yet so I just got to wander around before it got too busy. Unsurprisingly, it’s like a big Piccadilly Circus.
From there I walked to Bryant Park, a green city space known as Manhattan’s Town Square, where they are currently holding a winter festival with an ice rink called… Brrrryant Park. Amazing.
Also, the public toilets here were incredible! Like something in a 5 star hotel! They even play you classical music while you wee! Actually most of NYC has excellent weeing facilities, clean and plentiful, and often the toilets even flush themselves, although there’s often a gap round the edge of the door, which is a design feature I don’t understand.
New York weather is also nuts – yesterday it snowed, and today is clear blue skies and beautiful sunshine.
Next I walked up past the New York Public Library with its iconic stone lions. Last time I came here, the library was being renovated and the lions were wearing construction hats. I’m going to dig out those old photos.
Went past the beautiful facade of Grand Central station on the way to the Chrysler building, which I think is my favourite building here in the city. It’s just beautiful, an art deco skyscraper built in 1930 as 3 buildings competed for the title of world’s tallest building, dubbed the “Race to the Skies”.
Upon completion, Chrysler held that title of worlds tallest building for 11 months, before sneaky old Empire State came along.
So of course next stop on my tour was the Empire State Building – named after the nickname for New York State. This was indeed the tallest building in the world from 1931, until the Twin Towers were constructed in 1970. After the destruction of the towers, Empire State was once again the tallest building in New York City, until it was surpassed by the new World Trade Center in 2012.
Still reading? Good.
Now I just wandered around the streets a bit, passing Saks 5th Avenue, Macy’s (the worlds largest store!), Radio City Hall, passed through the Rockefeller and its famous Christmas tree location, and had lunch at Sarge’s deli, one of those quintessential New York delis that have been around for decades and serve incredible food, and have photos on the wall of all the old Hollywood stars that were regulars throughout the years.
I also went to MoMA (Museum of Modern Art). There are a LOT of art galleries and museums in New York. To visit them all would be impossible, but MoMA was at the very top of my list.
It’s very similar in styling and display to Tate Modern in London – which is one of my favourite places on earth, cos I’m a modern art twat. MoMA contains works by Picasso, Henri Matisse, Piet Mondrian, Frida Kahlo, Rene Magritte, Jackson Pollock, Edward Hopper, Marcel Duchamp, Roy Lichtenstein, Henri Rousseau, Cezanne, Jeff Koons…. Well, everyone really.
Absolutely incredible to see in particular – Van Gogh’s Starry Night, the Rothko room, Andy Warhol’s Campbells Soup Cans, Monet’s Waterlilies room (I got told off for taking a video), and Dali’s the Persistence of Memory – the one with the melting clocks (got told off for standing too close).
MoMA is right up there now as one of my favourite places on earth – I’ve left a little bit of my heart here in these gallery walls.
I’ve also been riding around on the subway, all on my own! You’ll be amazed to learn it’s just like getting the tube in London. Except there are a LOT more shall we say interesting people. You know that crazy ghost on the subway in the film Ghost? Yeah, like that.
In the evening I went to the Summit at Vanderbilt – an INSANE observation deck that I’ll cover below cos I can’t cope with how stunning it was, then had dinner at Peter Luger iconic steakhouse.
SUMMIT AT VANDERBILT ONE
There are many observation decks throughout New York, unsurprisingly as it’s one of the most iconic skylines in the world. I wanted to pick one to visit during the day (WTC), and I picked Summit at Vanderbilt One to visit at sunset.
It’s hard to put into words how incredible it was – it’s a multi sensory experience including glass floors, mirrored walls, reflections from every angle of the city, all as I watched the sky go from sunset to dusk to dark, and all the city lights come twinkling to life. The view was just incredible, clear skies in every direction, looking down onto the Empire State and Chrysler buildings, just so beautiful I could cry. As we reached the cocktail deck a deep fog rolled in so it felt like you were inside a cloud, with the city blinking out of existence and then back in again. A truly, truly unnerving, disorienting and magical experience, and a highlight of the trip so far ✨
Step count: over 25,000.
Today was one of those days where you just feel so happy and lucky and blessed for existing. Just the most beautiful and incredible day.
STATUE OF LIBERTY CROWN TOUR
When I came to New York in 1998 we were a hen party of 7, and we were only here for 2.5 days so everything we did was decided democratically. The thing I really wanted to do was see the Statue of Liberty, but everyone else had either seen it, or wasn’t bothered about it, so we voted to go shopping instead. (I’m not complaining btw, I still had a great time shopping) I maintain that I did still see the Statue of Liberty, it’s just that I saw it from the top of the Empire State Building and therefore it was very, very small.
Besides, I always think you should always leave one thing you want to do so that you always have a reason to come back.
Much like the Mona Lisa, it’s seemingly illegal to mention Liberty without someone saying “she’s a lot smaller than you expect, you know”. So you’d be forgiven for thinking she’s about the size of a garden gnome.
Mina was in NYC a couple of weeks ago, and when I asked her how big Liberty is, she said “as big as a church”, so that’s helpful 🤣
There are 15,000 visitors to the Statue of Liberty plinth each day, and only 400 tickets to the crown. They are hard to come by so I feel very, very lucky to be able to get one and go up not only inside the statue but also into Liberty’s head!!!
It was an absolutely incredibly experience! The spiral staircase is NOT for the faint hearted and definitely not for the claustrophobic. You can see all the support beams that hold her up, and the shape of the statue from inside – you can even see her eyes and nose and mouth if you look carefully in these pics! From the windows in the crown you can see her right shoulder, arm and torch, and you can look down and see her tablet in her left hand. You can see the spikes of her crown too, two of which are so close to her right arm – one spike is just inches away. The statue moves during high winds, and at one point that spike poked a hole in her arm which had to be repaired.
At one time, Liberty was the tallest structure in New York, a record which was previously held by the Brooklyn Bridge. Its so hard to imagine that now, with the Brooklyn Bridge absolutely dwarfed by the rest of the Manhattan skyline – you can see it in these pics, it’s the tiny bit to the right of the skyline 🤣
I admit I am a little bit obsessed with the green lady. So yes. There are 8 million photos of the same thing here, but I don’t care, it’s one of the most beautiful things I have seen and this is the absolute highlight of this trip. Also I can confirm that she is definitely pretty big up close.
NYC ADVENTURES DAY 8:
There’s an interesting response when you tell people you’re exploring a city on your own. In most cases, men’s response is “you’re on your own? Why are you on your own? Aren’t you bored on your own? I wouldn’t want to do that on my own”
In most cases, women’s response is “oh my god I can’t think of anything nicer than having time to myself and exploring a city on my own”
I can assure you I’m firmly in the latter camp, although of course I’m not entirely on my own all the time.
More riding on the subway today, where at each station they point out the accessibility features and tell you where the elevator is, but to me it always sounds like “the alligator is located at the centre of the platform”. I quite like the idea of every subway stop having its own alligator mascot.
Breakfast at Murray’s Bagels – I’m really going to miss the bagel places and delis. A bagel in the UK is just not the same thing at all.
Then wandering around Manhattan – admiring the architecture, and stopping off at the iconic Flatiron building (the one shaped like a very narrow wedge). Wandered past Macy’s, Madison Square Gardens, Hudson Yards and then walked the length of the High Line – this is a former elevated train track which has now been converted into a park/walkway with elevated views of Chelsea.
Quick stop off at Chelsea Market and then wandered to the iconic Chelsea Hotel where all sorts of legendary stuff has happened in the annals of rock history, and is where Sid Vicious stabbed Nancy Spungeon to death (OR DID HE?!??)
Finished with cocktails, dinner and champagne at the Coby Club, a secret speakeasy bar hidden behind a nondescript door in Chelsea.
Good job I’m going home soon because my feet are killing me but there’s just so much to see and do in this city.
NYC ADVENTURES: DAY 9
(Bear with me, I’m almost done…)
Early start this morning to cross the Brooklyn Bridge with all the runners, admiring the misty views of Manhattan from DUMBO (literally the name of the area, Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) and seeing all the skyscrapers disappearing into the clouds, like the Magic Faraway Tree.
Brunch at the legendary Katz deli, AKA where Harry Met Sally (I’ll have what she’s having), AKA the world’s most intimidating deli, but also the home of the most incredible sandwich of pastrami, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut.
Then stopped off at Bloomingdale’s where I was obviously a tourist wanker and bought a classic LBB.
Oh, and also 4 bags of dark chocolate Reese’s miniatures, which are harder to get hold of in the UK than blue meth.
NYC ADVENTURES: DAY 10
Eagle-eyed readers might recall that when I arrived in New York City in 1998, the first thing I did was throw up out of the window of a limo outside the Plaza Hotel.
So it only seems fitting that I end my New York adventures in the same place, staying in a suite at the Plaza.
I can see why Kevin lived in Home Alone 2 – I resisted ordering the Home Alone Sundae tho 🤣
What a perfect way to end a perfect , once-in-a-lifetime trip.
New York? Completed it mate 🎤 💥